Amorgos island guide

Chora was built out of sight of pirates, high in the hills, and is one of the most charming villages in the Cyclades, with whitewashed lanes, little squares, kafeneia and a Venetian castle perched on a great rock above the houses. Wander without a plan: the joy of the Cyclades is in the lanes, the little squares and the views that open up around every corner.

• Venetian castle rock
• Windmills
• Village cafés

Katapola wraps around a deep, sheltered bay, with three little settlements along the shore, waterfront tavernas and cafés, and ferries and boats to the Small Cyclades. Wander without a plan: the joy of the Cyclades is in the lanes, the little squares and the views that open up around every corner.

• Sheltered bay
• Waterfront tavernas
• Ferry port

Aegiali has a long sandy beach, a small harbour, tavernas, cafés and beach bars, and is the base for walks to the hill villages of Tholaria and Langada above it. Wander without a plan: the joy of the Cyclades is in the lanes, the little squares and the views that open up around every corner.

• Long sandy beach
• Relaxed atmosphere
• Walks to hill villages

Tholaria and Langada cling to the slopes above Aegiali bay, peaceful villages with traditional tavernas and cafés and paths for walkers. Wander without a plan: the joy of the Cyclades is in the lanes, the little squares and the views that open up around every corner. Early morning and the golden hour before sunset are the most beautiful times to explore Amorgos’s villages.

• Bay views
• Traditional tavernas
• Walking paths

Agia Anna is the most famous swimming spot on Amorgos, with intensely blue, crystal-clear water among white rocks, below the cliffs of the Hozoviotissa monastery. Scenes from Luc Besson’s The Big Blue were filmed here. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot.

• Deep blue water
• The Big Blue location
• Below the monastery

Aegiali beach is the best sandy beach on Amorgos, with shallow, clear water and the village tavernas a short walk away. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot. The summer meltemi wind blows from the north, so on windy days head for a beach on the sheltered side of Amorgos.

• Long sandy beach
• Shallow water
• Tavernas nearby

Mouros is one of the prettiest beaches on Amorgos, a pebbly cove with vivid turquoise water and sea caves to explore, and a café bar above. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot. The summer meltemi wind blows from the north, so on windy days head for a beach on the sheltered side of Amorgos.

• Turquoise water
• Sea caves
• Café bar

Kalotaritissa is a peaceful bay with shallow water at the southern end of Amorgos, close to the rusting wreck of the Olympia that features in The Big Blue. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot. The summer meltemi wind blows from the north, so on windy days head for a beach on the sheltered side of Amorgos.

• Calm, shallow water
• Near the Olympia wreck
• Quiet

The Que is a laid-back beach bar for an alternative crowd, with sunbeds by day, eclectic music and food, and a party mood by night. Sunbeds usually cost extra, and the most popular clubs are worth booking at weekends in July and August. Arrive by late morning for the best sunbeds, and check whether there is a minimum spend.

• All day and night
• Eclectic music
• Lunch and dinner

Kathodon is the place to sit in Chora with ouzo and meze under the trees, watching village life go by. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Amorgos cook with what the island produces each season.

• Meze and ouzo
• Village square
• Shady tables

Tranzistoraki is a small, friendly family taverna serving homemade Greek cooking in the lanes of Chora. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Amorgos cook with what the island produces each season.

• Family-run
• Homemade dishes
• In Chora

Liotrivi, an old olive press, is a lovely stone restaurant with a terrace looking over the windmills and the sea. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Amorgos cook with what the island produces each season.

• Windmill views
• Stone building
• Traditional food

Mouragio serves fresh fish and seafood on the waterfront of Katapola, watching the boats come and go. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Amorgos cook with what the island produces each season.

• Fresh fish
• Harbour views
• In Katapola

Santouraki cooks with what the family produces, from cheese to vegetables and olive oil, in a village setting above Aegiali. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Amorgos cook with what the island produces each season.

• Own produce
• Family-run
• Village setting

Limani is a long-standing family taverna in Aegiali, with traditional cooking and a roof garden looking over the bay. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Amorgos cook with what the island produces each season.

• Roof garden
• Bay views
• Traditional cooking

Jazzmin is an old favourite in Chora, a cosy café by day and a bar by night with a relaxed soundtrack. Island evenings start late: most bars fill up after dinner and stay lively well past midnight in summer. Opening times change with the season, so check before you go early or late in the year.

• Classic Chora bar
• Breakfast to drinks
• Relaxed music

Tzitziki has a balcony view over the rooftops of Chora, perfect for a quiet cocktail in the evening. Island evenings start late: most bars fill up after dinner and stay lively well past midnight in summer. Opening times change with the season, so check before you go early or late in the year.

• Balcony view
• Cocktails and wine
• Soft music

The Botanical Park is a magical garden bar on the hillside of Katapola, with cocktails, live shows and film nights. Island evenings start late: most bars fill up after dinner and stay lively well past midnight in summer. Opening times change with the season, so check before you go early or late in the year.

• Garden setting
• Live shows
• Cocktails

Aegialis Hotel & Spa is the island’s most complete hotel, with a pool and spa overlooking the bay of Aegiali and a Mediterranean restaurant on the terrace. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Amorgos open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Spa and pool
• Bay views
• Ambrosia restaurant

Emprostiada is a beautiful traditional stay in Chora, with terraces looking out over the island and the village lanes at the door. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Amorgos open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• In Chora
• Terraces with views
• Traditional rooms

Big Blue is an easy base by the harbour of Katapola, close to the ferries, tavernas and boats. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Amorgos open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Harbour front
• Near the ferries
• Relaxed

Vorina Ktismata has calm, well-equipped suites in Cycladic style on the hill above Chora, with views over the sea and the landscape. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Amorgos open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Panoramic views
• Cycladic style
• Near Chora

Airbnb lists hundreds of places to stay on Amorgos, from whitewashed village houses to modern villas with private pools, and many are run by local families. It suits families and groups who want a kitchen and more space than a hotel room. Read the reviews and check how far the property is from the beaches and the main town.

• Villas with pools
• Village houses
• Good for families and groups

Vrbo specialises in renting whole properties rather than rooms, so it is a good place to find a house or villa on Amorgos for a family or a group of friends. Compare the total price, including cleaning and service fees, with the same property on other sites. Check the exact location on a map before you book, as island roads can be steep and villages are spread out.

• Whole houses and villas
• Good for longer stays
• Compare total prices

Many of the friendliest places to stay on Amorgos are small, family-run studios and rooms, and most of them can be booked on Booking.com, often with free cancellation if your plans change. Filter by village and read recent reviews for cleanliness and the welcome. Check the exact location on a map before you book, as island roads can be steep and villages are spread out.

• Family-run studios
• Free cancellation on many rooms
• Easy to compare

Amorgos is long and narrow, with a single main road along its spine, so a car or scooter makes it much easier to combine Chora, the monastery and the beaches. Rental offices are in Katapola and Aegiali. Book ahead in July and August, check the insurance carefully, and photograph the car when you collect it; a valid licence is needed and non-EU drivers may also need an International Driving Permit.

• Offices in Katapola and Aegiali
• Delivery to the port
• Book ahead in summer

Amorgos is a paradise for walkers, with ancient paths along its mountainous spine and cliffs that drop into the deep blue sea. Start early and take plenty of water. Trips depend on the weather and the wind, so keep a spare day in your plans in case of cancellations. Book ahead in July and August, when the best trips on Amorgos fill up quickly.

• Mountain paths
• Cliff views
• Start early

Small boats run in summer to the islet of Nikouria and other beaches that are easier to reach by sea, with clear water for swimming. Trips depend on the weather and the wind, so keep a spare day in your plans in case of cancellations. Book ahead in July and August, when the best trips on Amorgos fill up quickly.

• Nikouria islet
• Clear water
• Summer service

Hozoviotissa clings to a vertical cliff face hundreds of metres above the water, a breathtaking sight. Climb the steps in the morning, dress modestly, and the monks may welcome you with a glass of raki and loukoumi. Visiting hours are limited, so check before you go, and remember that bare shoulders and knees must be covered; long skirts or wraps are sometimes lent at the door. Afterwards, swim at Agia Anna below.

• Built into the cliff
• Dress modestly
• Go in the morning

The Olympia ran aground near Kalotaritissa in 1980 and still lies in the shallows, a haunting sight and a favourite stop for fans of The Big Blue. It is a short drive or walk from the beach of Kalotaritissa, at the southern end of the island, and the rusty hull looks especially dramatic in the late afternoon light. Combine it with a swim in the calm, shallow bay nearby.

• Film location
• Near Kalotaritissa
• Sunset views

Amorgos has no airport; ferries from Piraeus and Naxos call at Katapola and many also at Aegiali. Check which port your ferry uses. For any emergency in Greece call 112. Ferry and flight times on Amorgos change with the season, so always check the latest timetable. Pharmacies take turns to open in the evenings and on Sundays; the rota is posted on every pharmacy door.

• No airport on Amorgos
• Check your port
• Ferries to Piraeus and Naxos

Buses run in summer between Katapola, Chora, the Hozoviotissa monastery, Agia Anna, Aegiali and the villages. For any emergency in Greece call 112. Ferry and flight times on Amorgos change with the season, so always check the latest timetable. Pharmacies take turns to open in the evenings and on Sundays; the rota is posted on every pharmacy door.

• Summer service
• To the monastery
• Katapola to Aegiali

For emergencies call 112, or 166 for an ambulance. The health centre on Amorgos handles medical care, and serious cases are transferred to larger hospitals, so travel insurance is strongly recommended. For any emergency in Greece call 112. Ferry and flight times on Amorgos change with the season, so always check the latest timetable.

• Emergency 112, ambulance 166
• Pharmacy nearby
• Travel insurance advised