Santorini island guide

Oia spills down the cliffs at the northern end of the caldera, a dream of whitewashed houses, blue-domed churches and cave homes carved into the volcanic rock. Its marble main street is lined with galleries, boutiques and terraces, and every evening crowds gather by the old castle to watch the sun sink into the Aegean. Below the village, steps lead down to Ammoudi Bay and its fish tavernas.

• The legendary sunset
• Blue domes and cave houses
• Steps down to Ammoudi Bay

Fira is the beating heart of Santorini, a bustling town of white lanes, jewellers, boutiques and terraces hanging over the caldera, with the volcanic islands floating in the blue far below. A cable car and a long stepped path link the town with the old port, where boats leave for the volcano. It is also the hub of the island’s buses, so it makes a lively and practical base.

• Caldera views
• Shops, bars and restaurants
• Bus hub and cable car

Imerovigli sits at the highest point of the caldera, and its views are among the most breathtaking on the island. It is quieter and more romantic than Fira and Oia, a favourite for honeymooners, with boutique hotels and infinity pools tucked into the cliff. A path leads out to Skaros Rock, a headland where a medieval castle once stood, with views right around the caldera.

• Highest point of the caldera
• Romantic and quiet
• Walk to Skaros Rock

Firostefani is a ten-minute walk along the caldera from Fira, yet it feels much calmer, with whitewashed churches, small hotels and restaurants on terraces facing the volcano. It makes a lovely base if you want to be close to the action without staying in it, and the caldera path continues from here towards Imerovigli and Oia.

• Short walk to Fira
• Calmer atmosphere
• On the caldera path

Pyrgos is one of the best-preserved villages on Santorini, climbing in rings around the hilltop where its Venetian castle once stood. Its lanes are quieter than those of the caldera towns, with cafés, tavernas and little churches, and from the top you can see almost the entire island. It is especially beautiful at sunset.

• Venetian castle ruins
• Views over the island
• Quiet lanes and tavernas

Megalochori is a peaceful village of whitewashed lanes, bell towers and old mansions built by wine merchants, with a tiny shaded square where locals gather for coffee. It sits among the vineyards of the south, close to several wineries, and is a world away from the crowds of the caldera towns.

• Bell towers and old mansions
• Close to wineries
• Peaceful village square

Kamari is the classic beach resort of Santorini, with a long volcanic-sand beach backed by a pedestrian promenade of cafés, bars, restaurants and hotels, below the rocky mountain of Mesa Vouno. It is easy-going, good value and great for families, and the beach has sunbeds and clear water.

• Long black-sand beach
• Café-lined promenade
• Good for families

Perissa and Perivolos form one long beach of black volcanic sand, running for several kilometres along the south-east coast. It is lined with beach bars, sunbeds and tavernas, and the water is clean and clear. The dark sand gets very hot in the afternoon, so bring beach shoes. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot.

• Black volcanic sand
• Beach bars and tavernas
• Bring beach shoes

Kamari beach is backed by the resort’s promenade, so cafés, restaurants and shops are never more than a few steps away. The volcanic sand and pebbles give way to clear water, and the beach is well organised with sunbeds and umbrellas. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot.

• Promenade behind the sand
• Sunbeds and umbrellas
• Clear water

Vlychada is one of the most striking beaches on Santorini, with dark sand and tall cliffs of pale volcanic ash carved by the wind into strange, sculptural shapes. It is calmer than Perissa and Kamari, and there are fish tavernas by the little marina. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot.

• Wind-carved cliffs
• Calmer than the big resorts
• Fish tavernas by the marina

Red Beach takes its name from the deep red cliffs that tower above it. Because of the risk of rockfalls, access has been restricted at times, so follow the warning signs and admire it from the viewpoint above, or see it from the water on a boat trip around the south coast. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot.

• Dramatic red cliffs
• Follow the safety signs
• Best seen from a boat

Ammoudi Bay is reached by around 300 steps down from Oia, or by road. There is no sand, but swimmers dive from the rocks into deep, clear water, and the little fish tavernas on the quay are perfect for a long seafood lunch. Climbing back up in the heat is hard work, so many people take a taxi.

• Swimming from the rocks
• Fish tavernas on the quay
• Below Oia

Seaside by Notos is one of the smartest places to spend a beach day on Santorini, with comfortable loungers on the black sand, attentive service right to your sunbed and a stylish restaurant serving Mediterranean dishes and cocktails. Sunbeds usually cost extra, and the most popular clubs are worth booking at weekends in July and August.

• Service to your sunbed
• Mediterranean menu
• Stylish setting

Theros Wave combines a beach bar, a restaurant and lounge beds below the sculpted cliffs of the south coast. It is a relaxed place for a long lunch, cocktails and DJ sounds as the afternoon slips into evening. Sunbeds usually cost extra, and the most popular clubs are worth booking at weekends in July and August.

• Lounge beds by the water
• Relaxed bohemian style
• Cocktails and DJs

Chilli is a favourite on Perivolos beach, relaxed by day with wooden sunbeds and Mediterranean food, and lively by night with music and parties that keep the beach buzzing. Sunbeds usually cost extra, and the most popular clubs are worth booking at weekends in July and August. Arrive by late morning for the best sunbeds, and check whether there is a minimum spend.

• Sunbeds by day
• Parties by night
• On Perivolos beach

Jojo is one of the beach bars that give Perivolos its fun, sociable atmosphere, with sunbeds, drinks and snacks during the day and DJ events that draw a crowd in the evenings. Sunbeds usually cost extra, and the most popular clubs are worth booking at weekends in July and August.

• DJ events
• Sunbeds and cocktails
• Sociable atmosphere

Tranquilo lives up to its name: a colourful, relaxed beach bar where days drift by slowly and the nights have a groovy soundtrack. Its kitchen serves vegetarian and vegan dishes made with produce from an organic garden. Sunbeds usually cost extra, and the most popular clubs are worth booking at weekends in July and August.

• Vegetarian and vegan food
• Laid-back vibe
• Steps from the beach

Selene is one of the pioneers of fine dining on Santorini, cooking with the island’s own ingredients, such as cherry tomatoes, fava, capers and white aubergines, and pairing them with volcanic wines. It is a special-occasion restaurant, and booking is essential. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view.

• Island ingredients
• Volcanic wines
• Book well ahead

Lycabettus is set into the cliff below Oia, with terraces arranged so that almost every table has an unobstructed view across the caldera. The cooking is refined Mediterranean, and the sommelier service and Assyrtiko list are excellent. Sunset tables book up weeks ahead in summer.

• Unobstructed caldera views
• Excellent Assyrtiko list
• Book sunset weeks ahead

Metaxy Mas is the taverna locals recommend when visitors ask where to eat well without the caldera prices. The menu mixes island classics with dishes from other regions of Greece, the portions are generous, and the terrace looks out over the vineyards to the sea. Book ahead, as it is always busy.

• Local favourite
• Generous portions
• Away from the crowds

Roka is a welcome alternative to the grander restaurants of Oia, with a relaxed garden setting and a menu of carefully made Greek dishes using produce from across the country, served on handmade ceramics with a list of Greek wines. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view.

• Short, well-made menu
• Greek wines
• Relaxed setting

Aroma Avlis sits at the Artemis Karamolegos Winery, so a meal here can be combined with a tasting of the estate’s volcanic wines. The menu is built around Santorini and Greek produce, and the courtyard setting among the vineyards is lovely for a long lunch. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view.

• At a working winery
• Local ingredients
• Wine pairings

To Psaraki overlooks the little marina at Vlychada, and the menu is all about the day’s catch, simply grilled or cooked in traditional island recipes. It pairs perfectly with an afternoon on the beach below the sculpted cliffs. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view.

• Fresh fish and seafood
• Marina views
• Near Vlychada beach

Kapari is a welcoming, family-run taverna in Fira that keeps things simple and honest, with traditional Greek dishes, local specialities and fair prices compared with the caldera terraces nearby. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view.

• Family-run
• Traditional dishes
• Fair prices

Kira Thira is a cosy, candlelit bar with stone walls and a soundtrack of jazz and world music, a long-time favourite for a relaxed drink in Fira away from the louder clubs. Island evenings start late: most bars fill up after dinner and stay lively well past midnight in summer. Opening times change with the season, so check before you go early or late in the year.

• Jazz and world music
• Cosy, candlelit setting
• A Fira classic

Tropical is a lively little bar with a terrace over the caldera, ideal for a sunset drink before the music gets going and the night turns into a party. Island evenings start late: most bars fill up after dinner and stay lively well past midnight in summer. Opening times change with the season, so check before you go early or late in the year.

• Caldera terrace
• DJ nights
• Lively crowd

Two Brothers has been a fixture of Fira’s nightlife since 1983, a cheerful, unpretentious bar for drinks, dancing and a fun night out with a young crowd. Island evenings start late: most bars fill up after dinner and stay lively well past midnight in summer. Opening times change with the season, so check before you go early or late in the year.

• Since 1983
• Commercial music
• Young, fun crowd

Franco’s sits at the very top of Pyrgos, and its terrace looks out over the whole of Santorini to the caldera, making it one of the island’s most beautiful places for a sunset drink away from the crowds of Oia. Island evenings start late: most bars fill up after dinner and stay lively well past midnight in summer.

• Sunset over the island
• Top of Pyrgos
• Away from the crowds

Oenosart is set in a canava, one of the old vaulted wine cellars of Santorini, and pairs local wines with exhibitions and evening events, a lovely, cultured stop in Oia. Island evenings start late: most bars fill up after dinner and stay lively well past midnight in summer. Opening times change with the season, so check before you go early or late in the year.

• Restored wine cellar
• Local wines
• Art exhibitions

Canaves Oia is a byword for Santorini luxury, with whitewashed suites carved into the cliff, infinity and private plunge pools, and sunset views across the caldera from almost every terrace. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead.

• Cave suites
• Private plunge pools
• Caldera sunsets

Katikies cascades down the cliff below Oia in tiers of white terraces and infinity pools, one of the most romantic hotels in the Aegean and a favourite for honeymoons. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Santorini open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Tiered infinity pools
• Honeymoon favourite
• Caldera views

Mystique, part of the Luxury Collection, is built into the caldera cliff on the edge of Oia, with cave-style suites, private terraces and a quiet, intimate atmosphere. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Santorini open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Cave-style suites
• Quiet and intimate
• Luxury Collection

Grace Santorini sits high on the cliff at Imerovigli, with sleek white suites and an infinity pool that seems to pour straight into the caldera. It is one of the island’s most stylish places to stay. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead.

• Famous infinity pool
• Sleek design
• Quiet Imerovigli

Astra Suites is built like a little Cycladic village on the caldera rim at Imerovigli, with whitewashed suites, a pool facing the volcano and warm, personal service. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Santorini open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Village-style design
• Pool facing the volcano
• Personal service

Vedema, part of the Luxury Collection, is set in the wine village of Megalochori around an old winery, with a peaceful garden atmosphere, a pool and shuttles to the beach. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Santorini open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Built around an old winery
• Peaceful village setting
• Luxury Collection

Airbnb lists hundreds of places to stay on Santorini, from whitewashed village houses to modern villas with private pools, and many are run by local families. It suits families and groups who want a kitchen and more space than a hotel room. Read the reviews and check how far the property is from the beaches and the main town.

• Villas with pools
• Village houses
• Good for families and groups

Vrbo specialises in renting whole properties rather than rooms, so it is a good place to find a house or villa on Santorini for a family or a group of friends. Compare the total price, including cleaning and service fees, with the same property on other sites. Check the exact location on a map before you book, as island roads can be steep and villages are spread out.

• Whole houses and villas
• Good for longer stays
• Compare total prices

Many of the friendliest places to stay on Santorini are small, family-run studios and rooms, and most of them can be booked on Booking.com, often with free cancellation if your plans change. Filter by village and read recent reviews for cleanliness and the welcome. Check the exact location on a map before you book, as island roads can be steep and villages are spread out.

• Family-run studios
• Free cancellation on many rooms
• Easy to compare

CarHub is praised by visitors for clear communication, clean cars and easy collection at the port with return at the airport. Book ahead in July and August, check the insurance carefully, and photograph the car when you collect it; a valid licence is needed and non-EU drivers may also need an International Driving Permit.

• Port and airport service
• Clean cars
• Good communication

ClickCar is recommended for a quick, simple pick-up at the airport, with staff who reply quickly and a straightforward booking process. Book ahead in July and August, check the insurance carefully, and photograph the car when you collect it; a valid licence is needed and non-EU drivers may also need an International Driving Permit.

• Airport desk
• Quick replies
• Simple booking

Sixt offers newer cars and the reassurance of a big international company, though it is usually more expensive than local firms. Book ahead in July and August, check the insurance carefully, and photograph the car when you collect it; a valid licence is needed and non-EU drivers may also need an International Driving Permit.

• At the airport
• Newer cars
• Usually pricier

A sunset catamaran cruise is one of the highlights of a stay on Santorini: boats leave the south-coast marina to sail beneath the caldera cliffs, stopping to swim at the hot springs, the White and Red beaches, before watching the sun set off Oia with dinner on board. Trips depend on the weather and the wind, so keep a spare day in your plans in case of cancellations.

• Swimming stops
• Dinner on board
• Sunset off Oia

Boats from the old port below Fira cross the caldera to Nea Kameni, where a path climbs to the craters of the still-active volcano, then stop at Palea Kameni for a swim in the warm, iron-rich water of the hot springs. Wear good shoes and take water. Trips depend on the weather and the wind, so keep a spare day in your plans in case of cancellations.

• Craters of Nea Kameni
• Swim in the hot springs
• From Fira’s old port

Santorini makes some of the finest white wines in Greece. Wine tours visit two or three wineries for tastings of Assyrtiko, the sweet Vinsanto and other local grapes, and explain the unique basket-shaped vines that protect the grapes from the wind. Trips depend on the weather and the wind, so keep a spare day in your plans in case of cancellations.

• Assyrtiko and Vinsanto
• Basket-shaped vines
• Two or three wineries

The caldera path is the best way to see Santorini: it follows the cliff top through the white villages, past churches and windmills, with the volcano and the blue caldera always below. It takes about three to four hours; start early to avoid the heat, and catch the bus back from Oia.

• About 10 km
• Start early
• Bus back from Oia

The sunset at Oia draws visitors from all over the world. Arrive an hour early for a place near the castle, or watch it from a terrace, a boat or the quieter viewpoints of Imerovigli and Pyrgos instead. Afterwards, wait for the crowds to thin before heading to dinner, as the lanes of Oia are packed for half an hour after the sun goes down, and a table booked for later in the evening is far more relaxing.

• Arrive an hour early
• Quieter options nearby
• Unforgettable

Akrotiri was buried by the eruption of the Santorini volcano around 3,600 years ago, and its houses, streets and storerooms survive under a protective roof. It is a fascinating glimpse of life in the Aegean long before classical Greece. Visit in the morning, before the heat builds, and combine it with a swim at one of the south-coast beaches and a seafood lunch at a fish taverna nearby.

• Covered site
• Bronze Age streets
• Near Red Beach

Santorini’s airport is a few kilometres from Fira, with flights from Athens of under an hour and direct seasonal flights from many European cities. Taxis, buses and car hire desks serve arrivals. For any emergency in Greece call 112. Ferry and flight times on Santorini change with the season, so always check the latest timetable.

• Flights from Athens under an hour
• Near Kamari
• Taxis and buses

Most ferries arrive at Athinios, at the foot of the cliffs south of Fira. A winding road climbs to the top; buses and taxis meet the boats, but queues can be long, so pre-book a transfer in summer. For any emergency in Greece call 112. Ferry and flight times on Santorini change with the season, so always check the latest timetable.

• Ferries to Piraeus
• Buses meet the boats
• Pre-book transfers

KTEL buses run from the main bus station in Fira to Oia, Kamari, Perissa, Akrotiri, the airport and Athinios port. They are cheap and frequent in summer but get crowded at sunset time, so travel early. For any emergency in Greece call 112. Ferry and flight times on Santorini change with the season, so always check the latest timetable.

• Hub in Fira
• Cheap and frequent
• Crowded at sunset

For emergencies call 112, or 166 for an ambulance. The general hospital serves the whole island, and pharmacies in Fira, Oia and the resorts can help with minor problems. Travel insurance is strongly recommended. For any emergency in Greece call 112. Ferry and flight times on Santorini change with the season, so always check the latest timetable.

• Emergency 112, ambulance 166
• Near Fira
• Pharmacies in every village