Island feature
Naxos: big, green, generous and great for families
Naxos is the largest and greenest island in the Cyclades, and it feels like a real place rather than a resort: farmers bring their produce to the town, mountain villages keep their own traditions, and long golden beaches stretch for miles. It is relaxed, good value and wonderful for families, food lovers and anyone who likes to explore. If you want glamour and big parties, look elsewhere; if you want a bit of everything, this is the island.



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Naxos Town and the Kastro
Naxos Town greets you with a busy waterfront of cafés, tavernas and fishing boats, where locals and visitors stroll in the evening breeze. Behind it, lanes and stairways climb to the Kastro, the Venetian castle quarter, where old mansions with coats of arms, Catholic churches, little shops and wine bars sit behind thick walls. It is at its most atmospheric after dark, when the lanes are cool and quiet.

At sunset, walk along the causeway to the Portara, the giant marble doorway of a temple begun more than 2,500 years ago, and watch the sun go down through it. Nightlife in town is lively but relaxed: cocktails at 520, a rooftop drink at Like Home, sunset drinks at On the Rocks on the seafront and dancing later at Swing.
Beaches for families and kitesurfers
South of town, the west coast is one long run of golden sand and shallow, clear water. Agios Prokopios is regularly named among the best beaches in Europe, Agia Anna has a little fishing harbour and beach bars, and Plaka stretches for kilometres, backed by dunes, with space for everyone even in August. The shallow water makes this one of the best islands in Greece for young children. At Mikri Vigla, the reliable summer wind draws kitesurfers, and the schools welcome beginners.
The mountain villages
Inland, the island changes completely: olive groves, Byzantine chapels and the smell of wild thyme. Halki is a pretty village of neoclassical houses and the old Vallindras distillery, where you can taste kitron, the citrus liqueur of Naxos; Filoti sits beneath Mount Zas, the highest peak in the Cyclades; and Apiranthos is a striking village of stone and marble. Lunch in a village taverna, with local meat, cheese and the famous Naxian potatoes, is one of the joys of the island.
Our advice: Naxos is big, so rent a car for at least a day or two to see the mountain villages; buses serve the beaches well but the interior less often. Stay in Agios Prokopios or Agia Anna for the beaches, or in Naxos Town for evenings, restaurants and ferries. Book a table at popular tavernas such as Axiotissa a few days ahead in summer.
With fast ferries from Piraeus in a little over three hours and a short flight from Athens, Naxos is easy to reach, and it pairs perfectly with Paros next door.