Neighbourhood guide · Athens, Greece
Exarchia
The city’s literary quarter: publishers, bookshops and record stores, old kafeneia and music bars around Exarchia Square, a pine-clad hill with city views and the National Archaeological Museum on its doorstep.
About Exarchia
Exarchia climbs the western slopes of Lycabettus just north of the centre, a student quarter of publishing houses, bookbinders and bookshops that has long been the heart of literary Athens. Around Exarchia Square and its side streets you will find old kafeneia, record shops, vintage stores and small music bars, with colourful street art on many walls.
On its western edge, on Patision Street, stands the National Archaeological Museum, home to treasures from every corner of ancient Greece, with the Epigraphic Museum beside it. Above the streets rises Strefi Hill, a small pine-covered park with views across the city. Uphill towards Kolonaki lies Neapoli, the city’s second-oldest neighbourhood after Plaka.
Come on a Saturday morning for the farmers’ market along mulberry-shaded Kallidromiou Street, one of the largest in Athens, then take a table at one of the cafés on the same street. Climb Strefi Hill in the late afternoon for the view, and stay for the evening, when the bars and music venues around the square fill with students and locals.
Where Exarchia is
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The best of Exarchia
Three of the best cafés in Exarchia
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15 photos
Since 1915
Afoi Asimakopouloi
Athens’ oldest patisserie, on the same Exarchia corner since 1915: galaktoboureko and cakes.
Charilaou Trikoupi 82, ExarchiaExplore View on map
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Video 2 photosSpecialty pioneers
Taf Coffee
One of the roasters that started Athens’ specialty coffee scene, between Omonia and Exarcheia, with expertly made espresso and filter coffee from beans roasted in-house, pastries, and tables outside on a quiet street. Closed on Sundays.
7 Emmanouil Benaki StreetExplore View on map
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By the Polytechnic
White Turtle Coffeehouse
A coffeehouse on Stournari Street, by the Polytechnic.
43 StournariExplore View on map
Restaurants in Exarchia
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6 photosGarden dining
Ama Lachei
A taverna in an old schoolyard garden on Strefi Hill, with home-style cooking.
69 KallidromiouExplore View on map
Museums in Exarchia
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5 photosAncient masterpieces
National Archaeological Museum
One of the world’s great museums of ancient art: the gold Mask of Agamemnon, the bronze Artemision god, Cycladic art and the Antikythera mechanism.
44 Patision StreetExplore View on map
More from our lists in Exarchia
Attractions in Exarchia
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5 photosGreece's greatest museum
National Archaeological Museum
Greece’s largest archaeological museum, with the Mask of Agamemnon. Allow half a day.
44 Patision (28is Oktovriou)Explore View on map
Parks in Exarchia
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4 photosExarchia’s lookout
Strefi Hill
A rocky, pine-scattered hill in Exarchia with a wide view across Athens to Lycabettus.
Walks in Exarchia
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3 photosBooks, markets and a hilltop
Exarchia and Strefi Hill
Bookish Exarchia, the Saturday market on Kallidromiou and the rocky paths of Strefi Hill.
Cinema in Exarchia
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Garden cinema
Cine Riviera
A green garden cinema in Exarcheia, known for director tributes and restored classics.
46 Valtetsiou StreetExplore View on map
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1938 rooftop
Cine Vox
A rooftop cinema on Exarcheia Square since 1938, with city views.
82 Themistokleous StreetExplore View on map
See the full list: 24 of the Best Cinemas in Athens & Glyfada: Open-Air & Indoor
New Developments in Exarchia
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10 photosDesigns approved
National Archaeological Museum extension
David Chipperfield’s new galleries under a raised garden add about 20,000 m² to the great museum.