Syros island guide

Ermoupoli is unlike any other town in the Cyclades: a 19th-century city of marble-paved squares, pastel mansions and churches, built when Syros was the greatest port in Greece. Miaoulis Square with its grand town hall is the heart of town, and the Vaporia quarter has mansions with steps down to the water.

• Miaoulis Square
• Neoclassical mansions
• Swim in Vaporia

Ano Syros was founded by the Venetians in the 13th century and crowns the hill above Ermoupoli, a maze of white lanes and steps leading up to the Catholic cathedral of Agios Georgios. The views over the town and the sea are wonderful at sunset. Wander without a plan: the joy of the Cyclades is in the lanes, the little squares and the views that open up around every corner.

• Medieval lanes
• Catholic cathedral
• Sunset views

Kini is a lovely little resort on the west coast, with a sandy beach, fishing boats and tavernas on the water, famous for its sunsets. Wander without a plan: the joy of the Cyclades is in the lanes, the little squares and the views that open up around every corner. Early morning and the golden hour before sunset are the most beautiful times to explore Syros’s villages.

• Sunset beach
• Fish tavernas
• Small and relaxed

Galissas is one of the island’s favourite beach villages, with a horseshoe of sand and tamarisk trees, tavernas and a relaxed family atmosphere. Wander without a plan: the joy of the Cyclades is in the lanes, the little squares and the views that open up around every corner. Early morning and the golden hour before sunset are the most beautiful times to explore Syros’s villages.

• Sandy bay
• Tamarisk shade
• Family-friendly

Vari has a calm, sheltered bay that is perfect for families, with a sandy beach and long-running fish tavernas. Wander without a plan: the joy of the Cyclades is in the lanes, the little squares and the views that open up around every corner. Early morning and the golden hour before sunset are the most beautiful times to explore Syros’s villages.

• Sheltered bay
• Sandy beach
• Fish tavernas

Kini beach faces west, so every evening the sun sinks into the sea in front of you, with tavernas and cafés along the shore. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot. The summer meltemi wind blows from the north, so on windy days head for a beach on the sheltered side of Syros.

• West-facing
• Calm water
• Tavernas

Galissas beach is wide and sandy, with shallow water and natural shade under the tamarisk trees. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot. The summer meltemi wind blows from the north, so on windy days head for a beach on the sheltered side of Syros.

• Golden sand
• Natural shade
• Shallow water

Agathopes is one of the prettiest beaches on Syros, with fine sand, turquoise water and views to a little islet offshore. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot. The summer meltemi wind blows from the north, so on windy days head for a beach on the sheltered side of Syros.

• Turquoise water
• Islet offshore
• Near Posidonia

Azolimnos is a quick trip from town, a little bay with clear water, sunbeds and cafés. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot. The summer meltemi wind blows from the north, so on windy days head for a beach on the sheltered side of Syros.

• Close to Ermoupoli
• Sunbeds and cafés
• Clear water

Allou Giallou sits right on the sand at Kini, with inventive Mediterranean cooking and the sunset as entertainment. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Syros cook with what the island produces each season.

• On the beach
• Creative Greek cooking
• Sunset views

Hygge has a terrace high in Ano Syros looking over Ermoupoli and the harbour, with seafood, meze and Syros wines. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Syros cook with what the island produces each season.

• Panoramic views
• Seafood
• Local wines

Mazi is one of the most atmospheric dining rooms in Ermoupoli, set in a historic mansion with beautiful lighting and modern Mediterranean cooking. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Syros cook with what the island produces each season.

• Historic mansion
• Beautiful setting
• Near the square

Laoutari is a warm, quirky place for traditional Greek dishes in a quiet lane just off the waterfront. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Syros cook with what the island produces each season.

• Retro style
• Traditional food
• Quiet lane

Giosifaki has fed generations of swimmers on Vari beach with fresh fish and traditional dishes. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Syros cook with what the island produces each season.

• Family-run
• On the beach
• Fresh fish

O Mitsos is the local favourite for grilled meat, in the countryside outside Ermoupoli with hill views. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Syros cook with what the island produces each season.

• Grilled meat
• Village setting
• Hill views

Jar is a charming little bar for a calm cocktail in the lanes of Ermoupoli. Island evenings start late: most bars fill up after dinner and stay lively well past midnight in summer. Opening times change with the season, so check before you go early or late in the year. Many bars serve coffee by day as well, so they are worth a stop at any hour.

• Cosy
• Cocktails
• In the old lanes

Mammo pairs Greek wines with Mediterranean plates, with views over the harbour. Island evenings start late: most bars fill up after dinner and stay lively well past midnight in summer. Opening times change with the season, so check before you go early or late in the year. Many bars serve coffee by day as well, so they are worth a stop at any hour.

• Greek wines
• Harbour views
• Mediterranean plates

Porte serves brunch in the morning and elaborate cocktails at night, in beautifully decorated rooms. Island evenings start late: most bars fill up after dinner and stay lively well past midnight in summer. Opening times change with the season, so check before you go early or late in the year.

• Decorative interiors
• Brunch
• Cocktails

Aristide is one of the most admired small hotels in Greece, a 19th-century mansion filled with art, with a rooftop plunge pool, a seafood restaurant and sea views. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Syros open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Restored 1860 mansion
• Rooftop plunge pool
• Sea views

Ploes is set in a grand mansion on the water’s edge in Vaporia, with a rooftop terrace, a café-bar with sea views and a private swimming deck. It opens from April to October. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Syros open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Waterfront mansion
• Swimming deck
• April to October

Pino di Loto has elegant suites above Kini bay, ideal for sunsets and the beach. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Syros open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Bay views
• Luxury suites
• Sunsets

Oro Suites is a stylish base in Kini, moments from the sand and the tavernas. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Syros open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Near the beach
• Modern style
• In Kini

Airbnb lists hundreds of places to stay on Syros, from whitewashed village houses to modern villas with private pools, and many are run by local families. It suits families and groups who want a kitchen and more space than a hotel room. Read the reviews and check how far the property is from the beaches and the main town.

• Villas with pools
• Village houses
• Good for families and groups

Vrbo specialises in renting whole properties rather than rooms, so it is a good place to find a house or villa on Syros for a family or a group of friends. Compare the total price, including cleaning and service fees, with the same property on other sites. Check the exact location on a map before you book, as island roads can be steep and villages are spread out.

• Whole houses and villas
• Good for longer stays
• Compare total prices

Many of the friendliest places to stay on Syros are small, family-run studios and rooms, and most of them can be booked on Booking.com, often with free cancellation if your plans change. Filter by village and read recent reviews for cleanliness and the welcome. Check the exact location on a map before you book, as island roads can be steep and villages are spread out.

• Family-run studios
• Free cancellation on many rooms
• Easy to compare

Syros has a good bus network, but a car or scooter makes it easy to explore the beaches of the west and south coasts. Rental offices are found in Ermoupoli by the port. Book ahead in July and August, check the insurance carefully, and photograph the car when you collect it; a valid licence is needed and non-EU drivers may also need an International Driving Permit.

• Offices in Ermoupoli and at the airport
• Delivery to the port
• Book ahead in summer

Ermoupoli is best seen on foot, from Miaoulis Square to the Apollon Theatre, the church of Agios Nikolaos and the mansions of Vaporia. Guided tours tell the story of the town’s golden age. Trips depend on the weather and the wind, so keep a spare day in your plans in case of cancellations.

• Miaoulis Square
• Vaporia mansions
• Golden-age history

Miaoulis Square is the living room of Ermoupoli, a vast marble square with cafés, palm trees and the imposing town hall by Ernst Ziller. It is the place for an evening stroll. The square comes alive in the evening, when families, children and friends gather at the cafés under the palm trees. In summer it is also used for concerts and events, and the streets around it are full of shops, pastry shops and tavernas.

• Marble square
• Ziller’s town hall
• Evening stroll

The Apollon Theatre is a jewel box of red and gold, built in the 1860s on the model of Italian opera houses and still used for performances, including summer festivals. Take a look inside when it is open to visitors, admire the painted ceiling and the tiers of boxes, and check the programme for concerts and opera performances in summer, when the festival brings music to Ermoupoli.

• Italian-style opera house
• 19th century
• Summer festivals

In Vaporia, the grand mansions of the shipowners have steps leading down to the water, and locals swim from the rocks below the church of Agios Nikolaos. Take the steps down from the street to the swimming platforms below the church of Agios Nikolaos, where the water is deep and clear. It is one of the joys of Ermoupoli to swim in the morning and have coffee in a grand square an hour later.

• Swim in town
• Below the mansions
• Deep, clear water

Syros is a major ferry hub, with connections to Piraeus, Rafina, Mykonos, Tinos, Paros, Naxos and more. The port is right in town. For any emergency in Greece call 112. Ferry and flight times on Syros change with the season, so always check the latest timetable. Pharmacies take turns to open in the evenings and on Sundays; the rota is posted on every pharmacy door.

• Right in town
• Ferries to Piraeus and Rafina
• Island connections

Syros airport is a short drive from Ermoupoli, with flights from Athens. Taxis meet arrivals. For any emergency in Greece call 112. Ferry and flight times on Syros change with the season, so always check the latest timetable. Pharmacies take turns to open in the evenings and on Sundays; the rota is posted on every pharmacy door.

• Flights from Athens
• Near Ermoupoli
• Taxis

Buses leave from the port and run in a loop around the island to Galissas, Kini, Vari, Posidonia and other villages. For any emergency in Greece call 112. Ferry and flight times on Syros change with the season, so always check the latest timetable. Pharmacies take turns to open in the evenings and on Sundays; the rota is posted on every pharmacy door.

• From the port
• Beach villages
• Frequent in summer

For emergencies call 112, or 166 for an ambulance. The hospital in Ermoupoli serves Syros and the surrounding islands. Travel insurance is strongly recommended. For any emergency in Greece call 112. Ferry and flight times on Syros change with the season, so always check the latest timetable.

• Emergency 112, ambulance 166
• In Ermoupoli
• Pharmacies in town