Island feature
Sifnos: the food lover’s island
Sifnos is where Greeks go to eat. This small, green island of white villages, sheltered bays and old stone footpaths has a cooking tradition famous across the country, and its rhythm is slow, civilised and deeply satisfying. It has no airport, no big resorts and little in the way of late-night clubbing, which is exactly why its fans love it.



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Villages on the hills
At the heart of the island, Apollonia spreads across three hills in a tumble of white houses and flower-filled lanes. In the evening its narrow Steno, lined with boutiques, cafés and bars, fills with people strolling after dinner; it is the island’s social heart, lively but never rowdy. Next door, elegant Artemonas has neoclassical mansions, gardens and traditional pastry shops.
Kastro is the most dramatic village, a medieval settlement on a rock with the sea on three sides. Wander its arches and narrow lanes in the late afternoon, then watch the light turn the little chapel of the Seven Martyrs, on its rock below the village, to gold. A glass of wine at Loggia, at the stone entrance to the village, is a perfect way to end the day.
Bays for swimming

Platis Gialos has one of the longest sandy beaches in the Cyclades, with shallow water and seafood restaurants along the shore; Vathi is an almost perfectly round, sheltered bay; and next to the monastery of Panagia Chrysopigi, on its rock by the sea, Apokofto is a lovely sandy cove.
The food
Sifnian cooking is the reason many people come. Taste revithada, chickpeas slow-cooked overnight in a clay pot, and mastelo, lamb or goat baked in a wood-fired oven; family tavernas in Vathi serve them traditionally, and the Sunday revithada is a ritual. For something special, dine on the rocks below Kastro at Cantina, or try the creative seafood plates at Omega3 by the beach.
Our advice: Sifnos is small but hilly; buses connect the main villages and beaches, but a car or scooter gives you more freedom. Book the best-known restaurants, especially Cantina, well in advance in summer. The island’s footpaths make it one of the best walking islands in the Aegean in spring and autumn.
With fast ferries from Piraeus in about two and a half hours, Sifnos is a little paradise surprisingly close to Athens, and it pairs beautifully with Milos.