Folegandros island guide

Chora is the jewel of Folegandros, a white village perched on the very edge of a cliff high above the sea, with a chain of small squares full of tavernas and cafés under the trees, and a medieval kastro quarter whose houses form the cliff-edge wall. Wander without a plan: the joy of the Cyclades is in the lanes, the little squares and the views that open up around every corner.

• Clifftop village
• Tree-shaded squares
• Medieval kastro

Karavostasi is a quiet harbour village with a small beach, tavernas and places to stay, and the starting point for boats to beaches such as Katergo. Wander without a plan: the joy of the Cyclades is in the lanes, the little squares and the views that open up around every corner. Early morning and the golden hour before sunset are the most beautiful times to explore Folegandros’s villages.

• Ferry port
• Small beach
• Boats to the beaches

Ano Meria stretches along the ridge in the north, a village of farmhouses, fields and chapels, where tavernas serve matsata, the island’s handmade pasta, and paths lead down to the wild beaches. Wander without a plan: the joy of the Cyclades is in the lanes, the little squares and the views that open up around every corner.

• Rural landscape
• Matsata pasta
• Paths to beaches

Katergo is the most beautiful beach on Folegandros, a long spit of pebbles between two turquoise bays, reached by a short boat ride from Karavostasi or a walk. There are no facilities, so bring water and shade. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot.

• Turquoise water
• Boat or walk
• No facilities

Livadaki is a gorgeous cove of clear turquoise water below steep, wild cliffs, a real reward after the walk down. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot. The summer meltemi wind blows from the north, so on windy days head for a beach on the sheltered side of Folegandros.

• Turquoise water
• Path or boat
• Wild cliffs

Agali is the most popular beach on Folegandros, a sandy bay with fish tavernas and rooms, from where a path leads over the cliff to the beach of Agios Nikolaos. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot. The summer meltemi wind blows from the north, so on windy days head for a beach on the sheltered side of Folegandros.

• Sandy bay
• Fish tavernas
• Path to Agios Nikolaos

Agios Nikolaos has clear water and a taverna on the slope above, a perfect day out from Agali. Bring water and sun protection, as shade can be scarce, and arrive early in July and August for the best spot. The summer meltemi wind blows from the north, so on windy days head for a beach on the sheltered side of Folegandros.

• Clear water
• Hillside taverna
• From Agali

Zefyros is a lovely place for dinner in Chora, with a courtyard, views and warm service. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Folegandros cook with what the island produces each season.

• Courtyard
• Views
• Friendly staff

Blue Cuisine is an intimate restaurant in Chora with inventive Greek dishes. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Folegandros cook with what the island produces each season.

• Creative dishes
• Elegant
• Intimate

Sinadisi is the place to taste matsata, the island’s handmade pasta, with local meat or rabbit, in the rural north. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Folegandros cook with what the island produces each season.

• Matsata pasta
• Local meat
• Rural setting

Papalagi has a terrace above Agios Nikolaos, with stuffed vegetables, vine leaves and fresh fish after a swim. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Folegandros cook with what the island produces each season.

• Hillside terrace
• Classic dishes
• Fresh fish

Psaromiligkas is a simple fish taverna on the bay of Agali, with fresh fish and a terrace by the water. In high season it is wise to book a table, especially for sunset or for a terrace with a view. Ask about the dish of the day and the local wine: kitchens on Folegandros cook with what the island produces each season.

• Fresh fish
• Sea views
• At Agali

Rakentia is the place for a sunset drink in Chora, looking over the Aegean. Island evenings start late: most bars fill up after dinner and stay lively well past midnight in summer. Opening times change with the season, so check before you go early or late in the year. Many bars serve coffee by day as well, so they are worth a stop at any hour.

• Sunset views
• Cocktails
• Breakfast too

Beez mixes creative cocktails in a beautiful traditional house in the heart of Chora. Island evenings start late: most bars fill up after dinner and stay lively well past midnight in summer. Opening times change with the season, so check before you go early or late in the year. Many bars serve coffee by day as well, so they are worth a stop at any hour.

• Creative cocktails
• Traditional house
• In Chora

Anemi is one of the best boutique hotels on the island, with white suites, an infinity pool facing the Aegean and a good restaurant. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Folegandros open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Infinity pool
• Aegean views
• Good restaurant

Gundari is the island’s most luxurious place to stay, with stylish suites and pools in a quiet setting. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Folegandros open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Luxury suites
• Pools
• Quiet setting

Aria has 11 sea-facing rooms and suites on a cliffside terrace, minutes from the squares of Chora. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Folegandros open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• All rooms face the sea
• Walk to Chora
• 11 rooms

Kallisti is designed like a tiny village of white houses, right by the squares of Chora. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Folegandros open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Near the squares
• Village design
• Pool

Blue Sand is the place to stay for beach lovers, a few steps from the sand at Agali with sea-view balconies. Book early for July and August, when the best rooms on the islands sell out months ahead. Many hotels on Folegandros open from spring to autumn only, so check the season dates if you travel early or late in the year.

• Steps from the beach
• Sea-view balconies
• At Agali

Airbnb lists hundreds of places to stay on Folegandros, from whitewashed village houses to modern villas with private pools, and many are run by local families. It suits families and groups who want a kitchen and more space than a hotel room. Read the reviews and check how far the property is from the beaches and the main town.

• Villas with pools
• Village houses
• Good for families and groups

Vrbo specialises in renting whole properties rather than rooms, so it is a good place to find a house or villa on Folegandros for a family or a group of friends. Compare the total price, including cleaning and service fees, with the same property on other sites. Check the exact location on a map before you book, as island roads can be steep and villages are spread out.

• Whole houses and villas
• Good for longer stays
• Compare total prices

Many of the friendliest places to stay on Folegandros are small, family-run studios and rooms, and most of them can be booked on Booking.com, often with free cancellation if your plans change. Filter by village and read recent reviews for cleanliness and the welcome. Check the exact location on a map before you book, as island roads can be steep and villages are spread out.

• Family-run studios
• Free cancellation on many rooms
• Easy to compare

Folegandros is small, with one main road along its length, so a scooter or small car is plenty. Rental offices are in Chora and at the port, and some deliver to the ferry. Book ahead in July and August, check the insurance carefully, and photograph the car when you collect it; a valid licence is needed and non-EU drivers may also need an International Driving Permit.

• Offices in Chora and Karavostasi
• Delivery to the port
• Book ahead in summer

In summer, little boats leave Karavostasi for Katergo and other beaches, and round-the-island trips stop at coves and caves along the cliffs. Trips depend on the weather and the wind, so keep a spare day in your plans in case of cancellations. Book ahead in July and August, when the best trips on Folegandros fill up quickly.

• To Katergo
• Round-the-island trips
• Summer service

The walk up to the Panagia is the classic evening ritual on Folegandros: a winding path from Chora to the church on the hill, with views over the village, the cliffs and the sea as the sun goes down. The climb takes about 15 to 20 minutes on a paved, zigzag path, so leave Chora well before sunset and bring water. On the way back, the squares below are lit up and the tavernas begin to fill for dinner.

• Zigzag path
• Sunset views
• Above Chora

Chrysospilia, the golden cave, opens in the cliff face below Chora, and boat trips around the island stop to see it. The cave is high in the cliff face and is best seen from the water, so join a boat trip around the island from Karavostasi, which usually combines the cave with swimming stops at beaches such as Katergo. Ask about the trip times at the port.

• Seen by boat
• Cliff cave
• Below Chora

Everyone arrives on Folegandros by ferry at Karavostasi, from Piraeus or nearby islands such as Milos, Sikinos, Ios and Santorini. Buses meet the boats. For any emergency in Greece call 112. Ferry and flight times on Folegandros change with the season, so always check the latest timetable.

• No airport on Folegandros
• Ferries to Piraeus
• Buses meet the boats

The small bus service connects the port with Chora, Ano Meria and the beach of Agali, timed with the ferries in summer. For any emergency in Greece call 112. Ferry and flight times on Folegandros change with the season, so always check the latest timetable. Pharmacies take turns to open in the evenings and on Sundays; the rota is posted on every pharmacy door.

• Meets the ferries
• Chora and Ano Meria
• To Agali

For emergencies call 112, or 166 for an ambulance. The health centre on Folegandros handles medical care, and serious cases are transferred to larger hospitals, so travel insurance is strongly recommended. For any emergency in Greece call 112. Ferry and flight times on Folegandros change with the season, so always check the latest timetable.

• Emergency 112, ambulance 166
• Pharmacy nearby
• Travel insurance advised