Island feature
Milos: extraordinary beaches, slow days and quiet nights
Milos has the most extraordinary coastline in the Aegean: white volcanic rocks like the surface of the moon, cliffs in every shade of ochre and red, and sea caves once used by pirates. It is an island for swimming, sailing, photography and long, slow lunches rather than late-night partying, and it has become one of the most fashionable islands in Greece for travellers who want beauty without the crowds of Santorini or Mykonos.



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The beaches
Milos was shaped by volcanoes, and its beaches are unlike any others. At Sarakiniko, smooth white rock sculpted by the wind meets deep blue water; at Firiplaka, coloured cliffs tower over soft sand and shallow turquoise sea; and at Paliochori the ground is so warm from the volcano that lamb is slow-cooked in the sand. With some seventy beaches, there is almost always a sheltered one whichever way the wind blows.
Our advice: Sarakiniko has no shade and the white rock reflects the sun fiercely, so go early in the morning or late in the afternoon, and bring water and sunglasses.
Kleftiko by boat

The highlight of any stay is a day on the water. Boats and catamarans leave Adamas to sail to Kleftiko, where white arches and caves rise from the sea, with swimming stops in water so clear you can see the seabed far below. It is the one thing everyone should book.
Villages and evenings

Plaka, the hilltop capital, is a lovely tangle of white lanes and little squares. Climb to the Kastro at the top for one of the finest sunsets in the Cyclades, then come back down for dinner. Below, the fishing hamlet of Klima has a row of painted boathouses at the water’s edge, and Pollonia, on the north-east coast, is a charming harbour of seafood tavernas.

Evenings on Milos are relaxed: a sunset drink at Utopia in Plaka, cocktails overlooking the port at Akri in Adamas, then a long dinner. Food is a highlight, from grilled octopus and ouzo at Medusa in Mandrakia to farm-to-table cooking at O! Hamos!, which does not take bookings, so arrive around 6pm.
Our advice: many of the best beaches are reached by dirt roads, so a car or ATV is almost essential. Adamas is the most practical base, Plaka the most atmospheric and Pollonia the most peaceful. Milos has become very popular, so book rooms and boat trips early for July and August.
With flights from Athens and fast ferries from Piraeus in about two and a half hours, Milos is the island to choose if you want to be amazed.