The magazine
Stories from Athens, Greece
Every story, long read and guide in the ULTIMATE Athens City Guide, in one place.
Culture
Arts & Culture in Athens
All of Arts & CultureAncient Athens, the national museums, the contemporary galleries, opera by the sea and the classic open-air cinemas of the summer nights.
Our advice
Ancient mornings, gallery afternoons
Give the ancient sites your mornings, the museums your afternoons and the galleries of Kolonaki, Thiseio and Metaxourgeio a slow weekday, then finish under the stars at a summer cinema. The back story
History
History & heritage
How a Neolithic settlement on the Acropolis became the city of Classical Athens, a Byzantine and Ottoman town, a neoclassical capital and today’s great Mediterranean metropolis.
In depth
Athens in depth
Magazine Articles
The stories behind the city: the sacred rock of the Acropolis, the best views from Lycabettus and Philopappos, a queen’s garden and the guards of Syntagma, the seaside city most visitors miss, and the new city rising on the old airport.
Syntagma and the centreChristmas in AthensThe Syntagma tree, the SNFCC rink and melomakaronaFirst morning
Climb the Acropolis at opening time, then walk down through the Agora and Plaka to Anafiotika.
- Neighbourhood guidePlakaThe old town beneath the Acropolis
- Neighbourhood guideMonastirakiMarkets, ruins and rooftops
- Region guideThe PeloponneseCorinth, Mycenae, Olympia and Sparta
- Neighbourhood guideKifissiaMansions, boutiques and fine dining in the north
- The back storyThe AcropolisThree thousand years on the sacred rock
- The back storyPhilopappos HillThe finest view of the Parthenon
Our advice
The guard at Syntagma
Arrive about ten minutes before the hour and stand on the pavement in front of the tomb. For the Sunday ceremony, come by 10.30am. The Changing of the Guard
Islands
From Athens to the islands
After the capital, spend some time on the Greek islands. The Cyclades lie in the blue Aegean just off the coast of Athens: glorious sandy beaches, crystal-clear water, the legendary sunsets of Santorini and the glamour of Mykonos, a short ferry ride or flight away.
Quieter islands
For something slower: Milos, the island of colours, and Folegandros, the cliff-top escape.
Know your neighbourhoods
Plaka & Makrygianni
The old town beneath the Acropolis: pedestrian lanes, neoclassical houses, the Acropolis Museum and many of the best-located hotels.
Explore Plaka & MakrygianniMonastiraki & Psyrri
Flea markets by day, rooftop bars and buzzing streets by night. The heart of central Athens nightlife.
Explore Monastiraki & PsyrriSyntagma
Parliament, grand hotels and many of the city’s best cocktail bars, all within a few minutes’ walk.
Explore SyntagmaKolonaki
Chic, upmarket and leafy, with designer boutiques, smart restaurants and stylish bars on the slopes of Lycabettus.
Explore KolonakiGazi & Kerameikos
A former gasworks district that became the city’s clubbing quarter, with venues around Kerameikos metro.
Explore Gazi & KerameikosThe Athens Riviera
The coast from Piraeus to Vouliagmeni: seafront restaurants, luxury resorts and summer beach clubs.
Explore The Athens RivieraKoukaki
A relaxed residential quarter below the Acropolis, with café-lined pedestrian streets, the Acropolis Museum and the pine-clad slopes of Philopappos Hill.
Explore KoukakiPangrati
A leafy, lived-in quarter of squares and cafés behind the Panathenaic Stadium, long home to Athens’ writers, artists and academics.
Explore PangratiExarchia
The student and bookshop quarter around Exarchia Square, with cafés, record shops and live music, Strefi Hill and the National Archaeological Museum.
Explore ExarchiaPiraeus
Athens’ great port city: yachts at Marina Zea, fish tavernas around little Mikrolimano, the hilltop lanes of Kastella and a seafront walk along Peiraiki.
Explore Piraeus